Left Pepula at 0930hrs, the locals had varied estimates of the time it would take to get to Reru-from 3hours to 5hours. Welcome to the mountains. The trail started with a rather steep incline out of the campsite. A while into the trail, Tenzing gave his usual brief about the route, obstacles, places where one can lose the way on the wrong trail, etc and went on his merry way with the horses. I had no intention to keep up with him on this last day of the trek, just wanted to soak in this incredible place and think back on the journey till now...
I wondered about whether by this time I was aware of why I was doing this, apart from the fact that I love the mountains and to study the people. It was almost like some other person inside me had taken the step to quit the job, the city, the family...and I was figuring out what he was trying to get me to see or realise...what was this journey trying to tell me? I can't explain it but its true, I had a strong feeling this whole thing was not real, what was I doing here? how long have I been out here?
The map said we'd lose about 200m in altitude. The trail had no such plans, it went steeper up every hour. The blisters were enjoying the pain they were handing out. All thoughts I had harbored last night watching the stars about carrying on to Lamayuru were dashed...my mouth would dry up every few minutes, I had to be careful with the only bottle of water i was carrying. No water in sight, no Reru, no Tenzing, nobody...just the infinite trail and me
After 3 hours, a little stream under a shade. An oasis, it was no mirage, it was real. I drank till my insides drowned. The next 2 hours was an ordeal incomprehensible in its pain, atonement, redemption for all the good I have had much too easy in this life. Felt like I was walking on the moon, it had broken earth orbit and was headed out into space, it was not real, it could not have been. I took a video of myself walking, could not speak a word...I still see that video sometimes to remind myself of all the good I have again in my life...its all good when you've been alone in the Zanskar...its all good.
1500-stumbled into Reru. dusty little village. Tenzing left the horses and accompanied me on the jeep ride to Padum which we shared with a few locals and a terrified cow tied at the back of the pickup. Half hour into the trip, the cow went raving mad and almost jumped off the jeep and into the ravine. The owner and his beast had to be let go as they were holding the party up and it was nearing sunset...
1700-drove into Padum. A quaint hybrid of a little town and a village. Checked into the J&K Tourist Bungalow. 200 bucks a night and finally a bath after some 2 weeks. Washed the dusty clothes, after living off the ice cold water along the trek, the cold water felt comfortingly warm.
Headed out to the town to look for customers for Tenzing for the trek back to Darcha. He'd have to do the whole thing again to get back home. I took a bus to Kargil and futher on the Leh...but not before I bought him a few dinners at the local restaurant and we shared a few good laughs...
The trek beat me this time, but I'll be back. Darcha-Lamayuru, I'll be back...I think about you many times as I lie in my comfortable bed in the city. I'll come back someday...
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