Manali

So the first trek of the journey ends. It was fun trekking with YHAI - the organisation is a blessing in this day and age where people prefer the comfortable, caustic life of the cities to the glorious mountains. Three cheers to the field director 'Tiger' Solanki for the Saurkundi Pass trek and all the people at YHAI who make the adventures possible.
The real test starts now as I head out solo from Manali across the Lahaul and Zanskar valleys and finally into Ladakh. A few days in Manali getting the logistics and provisions together, will be spent staying at DMAS(Directorate of Mountaineering and Allied Sports), Manali. I stayed here in Oct of 2000 as Negi(The General of Kinnaur) led a motley crue from FMS to the Beas Kund. If not for Negi, my life would certainly have turned out different. Thanks Negi.

But before all of this, a week in Khaknal and Manali with Bunts, the mountain goat. At YHAI, Khaknal, Dragon, Dillon's, the Bullet 500cc we hired, rode down to Babeli for rafting, the incomplete Solang Valley trek, gas on the hill, Yangkhor, what a week it was...

Saurkundi Pass, Kullu Valley

Have quit my job, sold my car, and left all the other strappings of the material life back in the city. Am finally living the dream and have started the long journey through the Himalayas. The plan is to trek across multiple valleys starting from the fabled Kullu valley. I feel this sense of freedom, unexplainable by a man of limited words...I wonder what adventures await me during the course of this journey...

The Infinite Trail begins with a trek with YHAI. Starting point - Village Baragram in Kullu Valley, about an hour's drive from Kullu town. The trek will take us across Saurkundi pass(12,900ft) on the true right bank of the mighty Beas and down to Aloo Ground near Manali. At Baragram, a temple which is considered too sacred for outsiders to touch. The guide who claimed to be a village mukhia claimed that outsiders touching the temple invite the wrath of the goddess and there have been instances of the whole village being mysteriously set on fire and the trespassers dying in strange circumstances. The rest of the trek to the first base camp at Segli (7100ft) was an easy ascent and we reached the camp at about 1500hrs after 4 hours of walking. View of the valley left behind against the backdrop of the mighty snow capped peaks was good. The drifting clouds gave the impression of smoke billowing from the peaks.

The second day we started out past Segli village onwards to next camp Hora Thatch with the local kids bidding us farewell and luck for the toughest part of the trek where we would gain 2000ft in about 4 hours. We reached Hora Thatch at about 1400hrs, an hour ahead of schedule. The laggards took another hour coming. By now the new shoes were starting to bite but it was expected as I didn’t have enough time to break them in. It wasn’t too bad though, it hadn’t cut yet.

Third day -trudging again at 0900hrs towards Maylee(10,500ft). The initial ascent was very steep and the loose sand added to the woes with many mortals making a funny sight out of themselves upon slipping and sliding, including yours truly. The tree line ended in a few hours. For lunch we had the company of cows and mules being herded by a few village men. A hungry trekker made the grave error of leaving his measly lunch ration unattended only to find a cow happily munch it down in seconds. I befriended the beast and we had a nice chat up close. This very gentleman kicked a fellow trekker in the back a few minutes later. Guess he liked me for some reason.

The post-lunch push towards Maylee started off smoothly enough with the terrain not posing too many questions. And then the weather changed suddenly. From a few drops of rain, the mountain gods pelted us with hailstorm the size of cherries. They were hard and they stung. Moreover, the trail became slippery and people were seen slipping and sliding again. Only this time, the gradient was fairly steep and no laughing matter. A few people in the group began to have a testing time physically and mentally. Help and encouragement from fellow trekkers, sometimes less than half their age, helped these folks to brave the elements and carry on.

It is on this final ascent to Maylee camp that my camera batteries drained out due to the low temperature, even the reserves. The biggest tragedy to unfold during the trek. The rest of the trek is etched on a film inside my brain. There were some sights I wished I had captured on camera like the 3-legged black horse grazing around Maylee campsite, the beautiful lammergeier vulture which I had begun to be able to identify thanks to Dr. Panse Jr., and the panoramic view of Indrasan and Deo Tibba peaks from atop the pass.

4th day onto Doura Thatch(11300ft). It started with a brief steep ascent after which the terrian levelled out to an extent and the going was smooth, crossing little streams at times the gurgling sound of which is enchanting if one were to stop and listen closely. A few small glaciers had to be negotiated enroute and the going was slow for the group. The arrival at Doura of our lead group of about 10 boys could not have been scripted better. As we reached the campsite and hauled our rucksacks into the tents, it started to snow – gently at first and then steadily. It was the most beautiful sight. Some of the boys were seeing snow falling for the first time in their lives and so it was a nice moment for them. Travelling the mountains changes people, it certainly had its effects on me many years back. I looked at these boys and wondered if and how this trek would change them. After a brief rest, 3 of us headed further up a mountain facing the camp site. It was a steep climb. After an hour’s climbing, we finally reached the top and the view of the camp site on one side and the snow-capped mountain range to the right was breathtaking. I took some time to reflect and meditate and mostly fill my city-battered lungs with the cleanest air I had breathed in years.

On the 5th day, I woke at 0700hrs after a cold and windy night. Tired after successive sleepness nights. The day will carry us over the Pass and down to Longa Thatch(10800ft). The beginning of the ascent towards the pass was tough and looking down after about 45 minutes of walking we realised we hadn’t gone too far. The trek continued across glaciers where the going was slow and slippery. Three hours later we found ourselves atop the pass offering a beautiful panoramic view of the Dauladhar range with Indrasan and Deo Tibba ruling the skyline. We also saw the long curvature of the Rohtang Pass. After a long break, we commenced the decent towards the next camp at Longa towards Kullu valley. The going was slow and hard on the old knees, the right one sounded like an old oak door closing slowly in a cheap ghost movie. I changed direction to allow the left knee to take the load. Reached Longa Thatch in the late afternoon and scrambled to get the best tent, they were all the same anyway. The night here was particularly bad as I slept under a huge boulder protruding from under the floor mat. Oh, the rigours of the outdoor.

Next day’s descent to Lekhni(8100ft) was steep and gruelling on the knees, we were to lose almost 3000ft on this day. The fatigue was beginning to take its toll on some people while first timers realised that going down is sometimes more tiring and exhausting that going up. Lekhni was a nice little wooden lodge in the middle of nowhere.

The last day’s descent was a few hours easy walk down to Alu Ground just outside Manali. As we walked down we had good laughs recounting the journey of the last 6 days. The customary legs were pulled and nicknames given. My request for a more romantic nickname than Sidhu Bhai was vociferously vetoed by Nana Shivam. The others supported and Sidhu Bhai I remained. We reached Manali as the sun set on the trek...

From here on, I head out solo...