Darcha, Lahaul Valley (3360m)

It took 3 hours to cross Rohtang pass in that beat Sumo, slush and the usual traffic jams. Another half hour after the pass, we stopped for lunch which I shared with the Sumo driver. He could not have been more than 18 and spoke with his mouth full of daal-bhaath. Another couple hours later, we hit Keylong where I had to change into a government run jeep. Surprisingly, it left at exactly the appointed time for Darcha, a couple of hours away. An hour into the journey, the jeep with max capacity of 10 humans was carrying 18. Everyone adjusted and was sitting at strange angles to each other, no one murmured a trace of protest at the fact that the driver merrily picked up anyone who flagged him off on that lonely road. He seemed to know everyone, one of the many endearing things about the mountain folk. It was quite a motley bunch -farmers, carpenters, hunters, wage laborers, a family returning from a wedding/reception, and a local drunk.

We rolled into the quaint little village of Darcha at about 1700. The jeep stopped right outside where I needed to go - Leh dhaba. I was to meet one Mr. Negi from the Mule Trekkers Association here, he would introduce me to the horseman who would take me to Ladakh thru Zangskar. As I alighted from the jeep, he accosted me. Later he was to tell me that he knew it was me as he had rarely heard of desi trekkers going solo in these parts. We trooped off for a hot cup of tea as Pratap Negi dispatched a runner to fetch Tenzing from Limquim village close by. The horseman.

Later we headed to the provision store next door to buy up provisions for the journey. There would be no food available till Padum, the capital of Zangskar- a 9day trek from Darcha so we needed to stock up carefully. Rice, dal, gajar, beans, potato, onions, haldi, cooking oil, namak, tea, sugar, atta, etc. We lugged the stuff back to Leh dhaba where I was to spend the night. They had about 7-8 beds for trekkers in a small room adjoining the dhaba. 50 bucks a night.

Soon Tenzing arrived. A quiet, sober soul, like most mountain folk. He asked for a bit more than what I was promised in Manali but I didn't care, it was not material. I saw it like income distribution, plus I didn't have much of a choice. I was dying to get started. Fetched out my maps and we discussed the route. Tenzing was not too keen to go all the way to Lamayuru(19 days trek) and promised to find me another horseman at Padum. If he couldn't, he'd make the journey with me. So it was settled and we parted with Tenzing promising to come with the horses at 0900.

Negi and I had a quick thali dinner with tea and hit the beds. I lay awake for a while staring out the window at the moon, full and low. It washed the valley white. Technically, the next night was to be the full moon night. Ah, full moon night in Lahaul valley ! I was living my dream, I really was. I smiled and tried to sleep, I felt so free it was hard to sleep. Tommorrow the journey thru Lahaul and into the heart of Zangskar begins...